In the heart of the bustling Latin Quarter overlooking Notre Dame Cathedral lies a tiny snippet of tranquility.
On a lazy Sunday afternoon I go there with a two euro ham sandwich and a chilled can of Lipton’s iced tea to reflect on what has been an eventful week. I take a much-needed swig out of my can and look over at the bordering church of St Julien le Pauvre, thinking of all the people it must have seen or sheltered over time. I sit there under a leafy green umbrella, simply watching the world go by. A father plays with his two adorable, impeccably-dressed toddlers while his wife cradles their new bundle of joy in her arms in the shade of an evergreen. A homeless man shakes a plastic cup in hope someone will stop and drop something in it, or perhaps even just smile. A young woman sits on the park bench next to me, diligently studying her Spanish notes, groaning with frustration as she checks the answers at the back of her book.
A view of the rose window of Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral from the Rene Viviani Gardens
This is truly a place where anyone regardless of age, race and religion can come to find a moment of peace in Paris’ continuous hive of activity and excitement. This is the Square René Viviani, and this is the ideal place to continue our French Way Spring Special . Located on the busy Quai de Montebello, in between the exquisite Rue Galande and Rue de Julien le Pauvre, Square René Viviani is the perfect ‘pozzy’ to reflect, relax, and people-watch. Named in honor of René Viviani, the first minister of labor of France in the early 1900s, it is hard to believe this little square has only been open to the public since 1928 – relatively new by Paris standards! In fact, it was originally a Merovingian cemetery, but during the dramatic nineteenth century renovations of the St Julien le Pauvre church, tombs were dug up from around the churchyard; many of them now displayed at the Musée Carnavalet .
A view of the Rene Viviani Garden, right by the Seine River and Notre Dame Cathedral
What a clever move this was turning this into an area that everyone can come and enjoy! The small grassy patches provide idyllic spots for picnic lunches or dinners, with sublime views of the Notre Dame de Paris in all her glory and splendor. Through the arches of red roses in the centre of the square, you find yourself looking at perhaps the most celebrated rose window in architectural history – a truly appropriate way of mirroring Notre Dame’s beauty.
In the heart of the square lies a unique bronze fountain, erected in 1995 by French sculptor Georges Jeanclos . Although this fountain is not everyone’s ‘cuppa tea’ it cleverly depicts the legacy of St Julien le Pauvre, the patron saint of travelers, reminding us that wherever we’re from, we’re welcome and will be cared for in this little corner of the world. Next time you come to Paris, come and sit here and enjoy another pace of life.
Square René Viviani is open every day until 9.30pm (hours may vary depending on season.), and even has WIFI!
(Article and photos by my daughter Sarah Reese)
This is the Georges Jeanclos sculpture at the Rene Viviani Gardens - one of the most un-noticed, yet beautiful sculptures in Paris!
I was waiting for this. Great that you gave us a picture of the Jeanclos sculpture. So many wonderful thigns oftne go unnoticed and it’s gratifying if some one discovers and shares them.
Oh, I feel like a trip to Paris coming on, but wait, can’t go
this year, but the memories of this lovely Park are so clear
in my head. Discovered it in 2008 with the assistance of
John, and we have spent time there on several occasions
either on going out for some fresh air and maybe do some
people watching, having a snack, or just quietly sitting
before we made our way back to Rue St Jacques at the
end of the day. Wonderful sculpture, and have many
photos of it in the album to keep in touch with its beauty
and unique designs. Just love the whole atmosphere of
the area, so much to enjoy in the busy City of Paris.
Rose & Vic – Travel the French Way.
The Latin Quarter was one of my favourite places in Paris, although I did not have a chance to see the roses bloom – beautiful.
Ayngelina, you can see these blooming roses in Paris another day!
Paris is one my favorites too. Love enjoying a sandwich in a beautiful park! Great read, made me want to visit Paris again.
Beautiful photos! I especially like the one of Notre Dame’s rose window framed by roses. Someone should write a song about Paris in the springtime 😉
Sadly, I have not been to Paris yet, but so nice that this place exists, in what I imagine is a chaotic city at times.
I love the photo of Notre Dame framed in roses. I took a very similar shot this weekend of the state capitol here in California. Paris in the spring is beautiful (and other times of year as well!)
I love little tucked away corners like that.
Sarah can write!
And what a lovely detail that such a tranquil space, dedicated to the art of doing nothing, was opened by the minister for labour
I thought you’d like this bot Robin: A young woman sits on the park bench next to me, diligently studying her Spanish notes, groaning with frustration as she checks the answers at the back of her book.
I hope that you are getting your answers right!
When I was at Rene Viviani Garden it was covered in snow! I’d love to see it in the spring and summer. The photo of Notre Dame with roses in the foreground is absolutely beautiful.
Cathy, you will see this garden in the spring and the summer, and the autumn!!!!
Lovely piece. This is a gorgeous part of Paris. Near St Julien le Pauvre is a tiny, ancient hotel I’ve stayed in a few times. It’s called Esmeralda and has squeaky floors and narrow, curving stairs and thick ropes for rails. There’s nothing quite like opening the shutters in the morning and look straight at Notre Dame.
You are absolutely right Sophie. I stayed in the Esmerelda a while back – it’s very quirky! Our apartment is just around the corner from here!! I love waking up to the chiming of the Notre Dame bells!
We visited Notre Dame a few years ago and completely missed the gardens! Beautiful roses. I can see why you like to sit there with your can of Lipton.
Julia