The Louvre would be one of the most recognisable brands in the world – there would be few people who would not know what the Louvre was, and where it is? There are nearly nine million people per year who visit, which is 30,000 people per day on average, going there to look at some of the 30,000 exhibits.
If you ask those nine million people visiting the Louvre what they went to see there, the answer would always be the same. “I’m off to see the Mona Lisa”. Bus tours take their groups to the museum, they walk for 15 minutes along the “Mona Lisa” highway, bypassing other extraordinary works of art, until they arrive at Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece. It is interesting because even though this painting was painted towards the end of the 15th century it has only become a popular art work since 1913 when an art critic wrote an article on it.
Musee du Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens
Once the tour party arrives at the room where the Mona Lisa is housed, you enter the room jam-packed with thousands of camera wielding tourists, you bump your way across the room until you can finally see something on the wall. There it goes! You can probably get about 20m away from this disappointingly small painting. You hold your camera out and put it on full zoom for your photo of someone’s head in front of you! Got it! Now you’ve got to get back to your bus tour, or the metro to take you to the Eiffel Tower!
That’s the Louvre, and an introduction to an illness I call “MLS – the Mona Lisa syndrome”.
I see examples of MLS throughout the travel world. I’ve met people recently who have travelled via Milan for flight connections, and I have said “Did you get to see Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper while there?”. “No, I had no idea where that painting was?”. I even heard of an art lecturer travelling with a group through Milan recently who advised his group “no you have no need to see “The Last Supper” while here”. But this group would have all gone to see the Mona Lisa in Paris. Why is this?
People suffering from MLS syndrome do only the expected things; Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre, Paris, London. It is rare to find people who will break the route and see some of the greatest roman art in Ravenna, the breath-taking artworks of Giotto at the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, the architectural beauty of abbeys of Fontenay or Fontevraud in France, or the Cathedral of Chartres or even St Denis in Paris. Sorry it’s not on the list of things to do. But the sad thing is, these are treasures. To spend a moment in any of these places, is a special moment, a moment to savour the wonders of this world.
A view of the entrance hall and the glass pyramid of hte Louvre above. Photo: Wai Chu Angus
I have visited all these places mentioned above in the last few years while escorting tour groups through Europe, and even if I have seen them before, without exception I have been moved by each visit. I remember each time, the intense emotion I felt when viewing “The Last Supper”, I remember saying that when I viewed the basilica in Ravenna that this was the closest to heaven I have ever been.
Over the last few weeks I have asked people to recommend to a first time visitor to the Louvre what they should see there? You know what they said don’t you? “But is there anything else you long to see in the Louvre if you were to go there tomorrow?”, I asked.
I feel now, that to help in a small way to cure the MLS syndrome, I have a serious job in front of me. Over the next weeks I will be writing a series of articles, each week covering one work of art in the Louvre that I long to see again. After you have read these I hope that you will have a new awareness of the Louvre and its highlights. If you have your own favourite please can you share it with me in the comments section below. If you don’t want to miss out on my articles on the Louvre please just click on the “Sign up for Newsletter” button on the top right of this article, and you will be advised each time a new article is published. I can’t wait for next week!
Visiting:
The museum is open every day except Tuesday and the following French holidays: December 25, January 1, and May 1.
Opening hours
– Monday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday: from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
– Wednesday, Friday: from 9 a.m. to 9:45 p.m.
– Closed on Tuesday
Entrances:
The Pyramid is the obvious entry point, but for easier entry try going to the Caroussel du Louvre at 99 rue du Rivoli, where there is an entrance. Metro: Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre.
Hi John,
I did manage to get to the Louvre & would recommend an early start as by late morning there were queues waiting to gain entry.
I have seen The Last Supper in Milan and have known several people that didnt even know it was there!
So many great things to see in Paris and not enough days but maybe next time!
Great article John! It’s true, MLS runs rampant in this town. As far as recommending something else for people to see, I’d suggest finding any Ingres painting and spending some time admiring the surgical precision with which he handled a simple draped piece of fabric. Second I’d go for some mediation on diffused light in the presence of any Rembrandt portrait…
But in fact, I think one of the most unfortunate pieces of art bypassed by tourists is the building itself! I’ve enjoyed several moments outside in the Cour Carée, which seems a bit uneventful compared to the pyramid courtyard but contains so much of the Louvre’s delicious history.
By the way, my wife was hired to be part of an event at the Fontevraud Abbey and we spent an entire weekend there. It was an extraordinary experience!
I loved your reply Corey. Yes, I love the Cour Caree too, especially late at night when it just glows. Actually I hadn’t thought of writing about an Ingres painting in my next articles, nor a Rembrandt – you’ll just have to wait and see what I come up with!!! I think we need to chat more – next when I’m in town!
Avec plaisir, drop me note next time you’re in Paris. Looking forward to your recommendations in the coming days!
Good advice about the early start Sheryl, thanks! Another tip is going there later in the day on a Wednesday or Friday when the Louvre remains open until 21h45 (9.45pm).
So true about Mona Lisa Syndrome. Very clever way of describing it, too. Although I made a point to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, I spent way more time on other treasures there. Looking forward to more of your posts on the Louvre.
Thanks Cathy. It’s almost a year ago since you were there in Paris in the snow – great time of the year to visit the Louvre!
I think I’m guilty of MLS. I’ve been there twice and that’s really all I saw, and the Venus de Milo. But next time… I’ll take a leisurely pace.
Ben, with the little knowledge I give you in the next few weeks, you’ll want days there!!!!!
i’m ashamed to admit that I still have yet to visit the Louvre. I am so uncultured it’s pathetic!!!
I do know that when I finally do visit the louvre, the Mona Lisa probably won’t live up to the hype, so i’m just hoping to get a good general overview of as much as I can squeeze into a 3 hour period [about my limit in a museum]!
The time you have available is an issue, but this is where secretly I’d rather people just made a list of their top visits, rather than trying to see all – otherwise it becomes like a 5 day tour of Europe in a bus!!!
I’m so glad you mentioned Ravenna. It is very close to heaven. Ihaven’t been to the Louvre yet, but I’m sure that I’ll get all blase and give Lisa a miss.
Oh Ravenna!! But when you get to Louvre for the first time there is no need to miss the Mona Lisa, just realise that there are some other sensational exhibits there! I will share these with you shortly!
Do you think MLS is in part due to the fact that not everyone is an art fan? My first trip to Paris, I was affected by the syndrome. I wandered until I found her and left feeling a bit disappointed. I also think this is a reason why you need multiple visits to these large cities. It is hard to it justice in one trip.
As I have aged, I will say my interest and appreciation of art has grown! I will be looking forward to reading your suggestions and think this is a fantastic idea.
Thanks Debbie. Actually I don’t think this syndrome is purely to do with being an art fan – a little bit of knowledge and understanding helps, for example knowing the stories behind the works – that’s the point of this series of articles! Can’t wait to share!
A very interesting post indeed, and an eye opener for travellers in general. A Nobel for you, John, for bringing MLS syndrome to the attention of the public! All the best from Santiago…
Andrew thanks very much for your comment from Santiago, but it looks like you may have some Kiwi roots?
As someone who suffers from MLS I would like to defend the generalisations offered about me that threaten to cheapen my experiences of the Louvre.
At the heart of MLS is a painting that entices millions of visitors every year. I think it is important to recognise that for some of those visitors, if it weren’t for the Mona Lisa, they would not have tolerated the crowds. In spite of how this appears to the experienced art lover, the lure of the Mona Lisa exists for those who don’t necessarily have an appreciation for art. In this regard, the Mona Lisa Highway provides an experience for these types of visitors before they have reached their ‘destination’.
I think there is a distinction between someone who visits the Mona Lisa at the beginning of their visit to the Louvre, and someone who visits Europe through the lens of their camera by choosing to ‘snap now’ and experience later.
To extend the concept of MLS to include the ‘expected’ European cities runs the risk of devaluing what is achievable for many travellers on holiday in Europe. For many people, their destination choice is a reflection of financial and time limitations rather than a lack of desire to break the route.
I personally really enjoyed Italian Sculpture, particularly Antonio Canova ‘Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss’. The Louvre is truly amazing!
Before my first visit I was offered some advice about the Mona Lisa – it is only disappointingly small if you have a misconception about its size in the first place.
I look forward to reading what other people enjoyed at the Louvre!
Lindy, your reply is perfect! In fact Canova is going to feature in the next few weeks!! I think in travel though, more often than not it is the prescribed route that wins, but that means places off the track get fewer visitors, which makes it more enjoyable for those travellers! But I do agree with you that even by entering the Louvre, they are doing something they may never have done normally.