The Count d’Avignon from Roussillon in Provence was a dapper young man who was often led to fight for his country and to travel with the Crusades of the 12th century. His wife was a very attractive woman and enjoyed far too much the pleasure of other men, while her husband was away from town. Her husband was not too impressed with her behaviour, and on the return from battle chose to have a large banquet. He chose for the main course to serve to his wife the heart of her lover, but of course only chose to tell her this fact when she had finished her dinner! The Countess in her distressed state threw herself off the cliffs of the village of Roussillon, and thereby her blood was said to have stained the cliffs and lands of this delightful Provencal village!!
Legends, don’t you love them!
The red ochre cliffs of Roussillon
But the “blood stained” cliffs and land of the village of Roussillon attract travellers from around the world. No-one knows this story but they all leave with ample photographs and very fond memories of this place. It is clear to see that the main feature of this village are the multi coloured ochre cliffs and surrounding land. What stands out is the complete sensitivity that the French have towards their land and architecture and how the houses and villages arise out of the ground as if they were just an extension of it. In many countries architects try to create a difference, to create a mark that stands out from everything – this is not the French way!
When you come to Roussillon there are limited parking places, but don’t give up. You should start your visit by walking up to the top of the village, past the compulsory postcard shops with glass bottles of ochre, and artists galleries. At every turn you will be greeted by views that take your breath away. Continue right to the top of the village until you arrive at the viewing table which offers you magnificent views over the surrounding countryside; Mont Ventoux, Mont Blanc, the Luberon Valley, Gordes, all stretch before you.
Once you have done this it is your turn to walk through the ochre cliffs. Signs clearly show you towards the “falaises” (cliffs) where for a small fee you can walk through these extraordinary “structures” seemingly painted in every shade of yellow, orange and brown. This is a fantastic thing to do, but be warned not to wear white shoes as the ochre could easily re-colour them!
Make sure you go for a walk through the cliffs - just don't wear white shoes!
If you choose to stay and admire this extraordinary countryside you could pause at the Restaurant David or just the local pub on the main street where I’ve recently had the most glorious provencale lamb daube – slowly roasted lamb casserole.
Roussillon in the last century saw a valuable trade in ochre for dying of paints etc, but of course with the development of synthetic colourings this industry has disappeared from the region, but today it has been replaced by people like me and you, just appreciating it for its sheer beauty.
Roussillon lies about one hour’s drive from Avignon.
This is Roussillon, and on the right side you can just see the Restaurant David "hanging" over the cliffs!
Interesting post, John. I wouldn’t have expected to see the red ochre cliffs anywhere in France. I really need to see more of that country! Quite an interesting legend, too.
Thanks Cathy. Reds, oranges, yellows, browns – all these colours together to create a magical feeling! There are some large “veins” of ochre running through this part of Provence. I’ll see you there one day I’m sure!!
What an amazing place!
We’re off to Provence next year and I can’t wait to see this stuff for myself. Thanks for sharing.
You’ll love going to Provence. Let me know before you’re there in case I’m there, and I can give you a few good restaurant tips!!
Very cool backstory. This place makes me think of Arizona or New Mexico. I never would have guess that it was france.
@Scott Thanks for your comment. The difference with New Mexico is that this is over a very small area, and of course the food!!!
@Christy Thanks for your comments. Red earth at sunset is the best, right?!
@Norbert Quite some way of getting your own back on your partner, no? As for architecture, sensitivity is the word!
These red rocks are beautiful! We’re currently in the U.S. southwest and have encountered something similar at the national parks here (well, and just all over the place) – tons of red rocks and huge towering cliffs that are a brilliant hue during sunset.
I love legends!! That one is a pretty cool bloody legend. lol
I had never heard of Roussillon, but I can see why people love it. It has an interesting history, nature, and architecture. How cool is it that the architecture sort of blends with the scenery!
Rousillon is a unique and special place, in the history of
the earth, and France, and visiting the Town while on tour with John and others, was a special morning.
Kauaʻi or Kauai is geologically the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands. the 21st largest island in the United States.[4] Known also as the “Garden Isle”, it is very unique. This island is the site of the Waimea Canyon State Park, absolutely beautiful, with so much to see. The Waimea Canyon is red ochre earth, with wonderful trees, great sun-rises and sun-sets. and of course they share this wonder with the Grand Canynon. Arizona, the Great Red Centre of Australia and the mighty Kruger Park in South Africa.
So, in geological years, all these places are the ancient earth areas of the world, and wonderful to visit. We have been certainly very fortunate to be able to visit these wonderful areas.
Its wonderful to get out of the cities and see what creation has done.
Great Blog, Rose & Vic, Fans of the French Way Travel.
I’ve been to France a couple of times but like Norbert, I have never heard of Roussillon. You’re riight though — the town looks like an extension of the land. Very nice!
I adore legends, the weirder the better. Lovely pictures too.
Hi John
We spent 2 months in France this year and stayed in L’Isle sur La Sorgue for a week ,what an amazing town and area! The town is built on a number islands on the river sorgue these give it its name venice of provence, the source of the river is in a close by village called Fontaine de Vaclause which is also beautiful. L’Isle sur la sorgue has a huge market twice a week its amazing and also lots of antiques. I can’t understand why this town doesn’t appear in many of the french tourist books there is a huge amount of history here we loved it! Also went to The most beautiful villages including Roussillion and Gordes but there’s lots more. We love this area of France its warm, relaxed, the people are friendly and of course the food is great! On the south coast we visited a wee fishing town called Cassis also well worth visiting it was much less unspoilt than some of the others. A must do in Cassis is a boat trip around the local bays. Would love to join you on a trip one day, I seem to be in France every 4 or 5 years I love it! Our daughter was a language assistant in St Malo Bretagne over the last year thats another amazing part of France!
Karen, you seem to have had a wonderful time in Provence. On my 2012 tour we will be visiting many of these places. I love all the places you mentioned!!