Portugal has been featuring regularly in the world media at present. Will there be another financial bailout for this country, as it struggles to survive financially?
This is the scene that was set for me as I chose at the last minute to lead an escorted tour through Portugal. (Read about why I chose Portugal here).
Lisbon was flattened by an earthquake in 1755, and because of this I was most interested in seeing how the city re-built itself in to the city that it is today. As I flew in over the river I had no idea what to expect.
Rossio Square, Lisbon
I drove in from Lisbon airport down wide tree-lined boulevards, past large communal squares humming with entertainment, past attractive elegant consistently designed buildings on the way to my super elegant hotel only steps from the centre of town.
I share with you my Top 4 observations on Lisbon.
1. Lisbon – Post-Earthquake
The first thing that impressed me was the post-earthquake rebuild. The prime-minister of the time, Marquês de Pombal had insisted on wide boulevards and open spaces – locals at the time thought that he had lost his head insisting on such large roadways, when the form of transport at the time was on horseback. Of course now nearly 250 years later he is looked on as being a visionary.
2. Portugal – The Grand Superpower
Monument to the Discoveries, Belem
In the 15th century the Portugese were the undisputed world superpower. People such as Vasco da Gama and Fredinand Magellan ventured out and helped create an empire which spread from South America through Asia including China and India. This is the city of explorers and to be able to see the richness of their life from this time was a treat. As Portugal progressed from the 15th century and raced towards the 20th century the city still entertained and lived the rich life of world leaders with a vast collection of embassies and palaces
in the hills beyond Lisbon city. Back 5 centuries ago the King of Portugal was known to travel to visit the Pope making his impressive entrance to Rome on a fleet of golden carriages with horses hooved in solid gold! Such a back drop is interesting when assessing the financial health of Portugal today.
3. Lisbon – the City and its Culture
To walk down the pedestrian street Rue Augusta from the river-front at Praca do Comercio is a treat! You walk across glorious pavements presented in mosaic tiles creating their own perfect works of art. You pass sensitively designed shop fronts that appear as if they are meant to be there, with no shop front clashing with the next. You slowly make your way up the
narrow streets on any one of the seven hills surrounding the city only to experience a visual triumph of charming narrow streets, breath-taking tiled facades to the building fronts, open-spaced communal squares, with teasing viewpoints out over this city, which is criss-crossed with old colourful electric trams. The colourful bars and restaurants and cafés with their world famous pastry counters are never far away from a flagging tourist!
Rue Augusta towards the Praca do Comercio
Fado music and their restaurants would be one of the highlights of Lisbon. Fado music is a soulful folk music which usually consists of a solo singer being accompanied often by two 12 string guitars. The music and songs follows melancholic themes of love. The Maitre d’ of the famous Club de Fado, Miguel Fernandas, mentioned that in these songs the singer sings about the loves in their life, always while referring about their country and their history. An evening of Fado singing will inspire you. Listen to Dulce Pontes – Cancao do Mar
4. The Portugese People
One of the joys of travel is to experience the people of the countries you visit. From the taxi driver, to the staff in the hotel lobby, to the servers in the cafés, to the local tour guides, I only ever experienced a richness of people that astounded.
Here were a proud people who were the great adventurers of the world, who still had the spirit as if they still were the great discoverers. They carried on their shoulders a richness of spirit, which maybe derives from the rich history that their country played in the globalisation of history. Portugal represents the best we can find in the human spirit. As we read of their country’s financial crisis we must separate this out as being a political quagmire and issue, and that this personal spirit of Portugal will come to the fore in restoring their political pride in the years ahead.
I have recently finished leading a ten day escorted tour through Portugal, starting in Lisbon and ending in Porto. Over the next weeks I will share with you my experiences of this wonderful journey. You may want to keep an eye on www.france.co.nz for information on future tours of Portugal.
For my stay in Lisbon I especially would like to thank:
Alberto Rouiller from www.BestinPortugal.com
Miguel Carvalho – Portugese National Tourist Office in New York
Obrigado!
Praca do Comercio, Lisbon - where the Royal Palace was before being destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.
The Garden of the Imperial Palace, Belem
Great post John. Lisbon’s high on my wishlist. So how cheap was it there?
Thanks Jools. Lisbon was amazing, and the rest of Portugal was too! I especially didn’t want to mention prices, so as not to detract from the amazing people. But prices are very very reasonable. Four star hotels at only about 140 Euro pn, meals half the price of Paris.
We’ve actually been talking about Lisbon a lot lately since we skipped it when we were in Europe last summer. Maybe it needs to move further up on our list!
Thanks Jade. I will attempt to capture the beauty and variety that Portugal offers in a future article.
It look really pretty John. I was not aware that it was completely flattened back in 1775- they’ve done a great job rebuilding it.
The rebuild of Lisbon from 250 years ago is really interesting and I am going to write more about it soon! Thanks Grace for your comment.
Flattened in 1755 and rebuilt — still makes it a very old city by Australian standards!
It looks beautiful, very elegant and historic. I’m looking forward to hearing more details, John.
Portugal is a country I have yet to discover, and a weekend trip to Lisbon has been on my mind for a couple of years, so this overview is brilliant! I’m really interested in hearing Fado music – are there any particular areas of Lisbon to go to for this kind of music?
Thanks Christina. Fado music can be heard at nearly any bar. I was advised that the best Fado music was to be heard in the Alfama district of LIsbon, where you can find the Club de Fado, which is an exceptional restaurant with Fado music between and during courses – stunning! I hope that you had a chance to listen to the music link!
Loved the video – there is something of the east in the music of both Spain and Portugal and I can’t get enough of it.
Lisbon isn’t all that far from us and so hopefully will get a visit reasonably soon. Thanks for the beautifully written preview.
I guess that the similarities in music through this area are brought about through the Moorish influences. I loved my quick visit to Madrid too – went especially to see Picasso’s Gurnika painting – but guess what, the gallery was closed the day I was there!!!!!
I am DYING to get to Portugal. And how awesome that YOU could be my tour leader!
Thanks Raymond – now wouldn’t that be fun having a group of travel bloggers touring together!!
I didn’t know about Fado music before.
Actually Stephanie the Fado music is so sultry and sexy, but it is sung from deep in their hearts, which makes it so special.
Found you through T-BEX. Lovely to read about Lisbon – one of my favourite cities in the world! I’m new to travel blogging, and have already done a post on Portugal (Alentejo), so it’s nice to read someone else’s views on a place I love!
Thanks Mandy for stopping by. I also loved the Alentejo countryside. I look forward to reading some of your articles!
Great post! I love Lisbon and can’t wait to go back someday and explore more.
Thanks Michael. I can’t wait to go back to Lisbon and Portugal either.
I loved learning more about Lisbon from your personal time there. Sounds like you were very impressed with the city and its people. I hope I go there sometime for the beauty, history, people and fado music!
Thanks Cathy! You will go to Portugal one day – I’m sure of that – it’s just a cheap Easyjet flight from Paris!
Great blog John, I have read about Porto and the cruises
up the river etc, and always thought Lisbon would be interesting. Glad the tour went well, and also the music
sounds great – I have a CD by Sarah Brightman, “Harem”,
and she sings her version of that lovely song – bit different
to the Portugese version – fado – certainly more Moorish in sound and feeling. Hope you have thawed out if you are
in the south !!!! Look forward to your next blog.
Best regards, Rose & Vic
“Sarah Brightman – “Canção do Mar” – “a desert fantasy”
check out You Tube – its amazing what you find.
Lisboa is a lovely city, isn’t it – and one I haven’t seen nearly as much of as I would like. Very nice post and photos here
I enjoyed this post very much. Lisbon and Portugal are definitely on my list. Need to get there very soon.
Lisbon looks beautiful – I can see why you enjoyed it so much! The Praca do Comercio is just gorgeous in that picture. Thanks for sharing!
~ Sara
Thanks Sara for your comment here! I will share some more photos of Portugal with you shortly.
[…] Comments « Lisbon – Arrival in Portugal […]
Great account, John. It would be my pleasure to have you here again, to visit other amazing places of this compact diversity that we have in Portugal.
Also, to make your post even better looking, you might want to correct my name (Rouiller) and also that of Mr. Carvalho.
Cheers!
Thanks Alberto for your comments. I will definitely be back to Portugal. I’m planning on bringing a group to Portugal in September 2012, so that we can experience the harvest in the Douro Valley – of course we’ll also come to Lisbon!!