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Rugby World Cup 2012 – in France

October 20, 2011 by John in France

The Rugby World Cup mounts to its ultimate crescendo and conclusion. New Zealand to face France in the final match of the Rugby World Cup in Auckland.

I am writing this from Christchurch, where despite this city losing the ability to host their World Cup matches, has still been able to get in to the excitement of the tournament. Many cars display flags and many buildings and homes display All Black flags or various country flags. In Wellington and Auckland the tension has risen to fever pitch with nearly every second car displaying flags supporting their respective teams – predominantly proudly supporting the All Blacks.

In New Zealand, the CEO of NZ Rugby World Cup, Martin Snedden has called for the country to be a stadium of 4 million people.  We can now see this. But what is the situation in France?

In France they have a population of 60 million, where football rules, and rugby is very much considered a minority sport. Do the French know about the Rugby World Cup?

Television Channels

On all the major TV channels their web sites offer minor headlines to the RWC, and this week even there has been more interest in the Champions League Football, and the election of the Socialist Presidential candidate. But most channels on their weather forecasts include a weather forecast for New Zealand (for the finals of the Cup), as well as their local French weather.

France 2 TV station has a minor link through to the RWC in the form of a blog. “Le Blog de Sylvain Marconnet” sums up the feelings of the French people over the RWC. On this blog there have been heated discussions on the merits of the team being in the final through to those who support their coaches sentiment that “(they) are going to be the champions”.

Newspapers

Through all the daily papers there are minor front page links to RWC coverage. Rugby is most popular in the south-west and central France so of course papers in these areas such as in Toulouse, Bordeaux and Clermont-Ferrand have been giving the rugby more detailed coverage. In this paper in the South-West of France you will struggle to find articles on the rugby when compared with this local Auckland newspaper?

It has been interesting to see that in La Provence newspaper, which covers Toulon and Marseille, there was more coverage on the Toulon Rugby results, than for the French team results. The same was the case in the Charente Libre newspaper near Bordeaux which started its sports write-up on the local Cognac rugby club.

In Brittany the Ouest France paper didn’t have any big headlines for the RWC, but because they are not a rugby playing region they had included on their news site an impressive interactive “rugby” page for explaining the rules, field positions, and even rugby kit worn.

It is clear that as this week has progressed towards the final matches that the media coverage has increased much the same as the blood pressure of supporters in NZ has!

In the Street

In New Zealand each city has a “FanZone” where supporters can watch the matches together. In Toulouse these were the crowds (see below) at the French semi-final match in their central square. But they have a dilemma this weekend. On Sunday morning in Toulouse the local marathon is being run from this same central square making it impossible to screen the live rugby coverage from the same place! One of the local politicians has suggested that they watch the match with a two hour delay! Somehow I can’t imagine that being a popular
decision.

20,000 people watched the semi-finals in the centre of Toulouse. Photo: www.ladepeche.fr

In Provence, which is not your traditional rugby area, coverage in the streets has been non-stop, and it is the main topic of discussion at the markets and in the bars. Presently bars and town squares are frantically setting up large screens for the viewers on Sunday morning.

To many viewers it has seemed that the French team have been rather “splintered” as a group, which is a danger for them, but everyone knows of the risks they can front, and I think you will find the All Blacks giving them plenty of respect!   Everyone has known for some time that there was a lot of disagreement between the team and their coach Lèvremont, who has nothing to lose because he is retiring after the World Cup.   But in the back of their minds they have this double view that on one hand they have a group of super talented players, yet on the other hand in their coach’s words “we have a team of spoilt brats”.

“My baker in Pessac sur Dordogne tells me that the All Blacks will win, because the French have played so badly” says Jacquie Franc de Ferrière.

“They all know that the team has had its problems, but as they have got to the final, they all still have confidence and to be honest there are some excellent players in the 15 de France” says Justine Gernez from Mazan. “but I personally think that until now they have not played as a solid team.  But the French are always so unpredictable – that is what they are known for, and for giving everyone heart attacks until the final whistle is blown”.

These mixed feelings are well expressed in this news video from www.stuff.co.nz of a French mother and son agreeing to disagree on the outcome of the final match!

“Maybe we don’t have talent, but we have heart”, says the French captain Thierry Dusautoir.

So all the best to both teams for a great match of rugby on Sunday evening (NZ time) and Sunday morning (French time). Keep your heart pills close by, and get ready to party!

Posted in France, Holiday, News, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 5 Comments »

Escorted Tours 2012 – France and Portugal

October 18, 2011 by John in France

John Reese - your guide!

For nearly twenty years my job has enabled me to regularly escort groups through France and Europe. It is at this time of the year when I love planning where I am going to take people on tour for the following year.

For the year 2012 I have chosen to revisit some of my favourite areas from previous tours. Each tour lasts about two weeks. So for next year I will be taking small groups from the French Riviera through south west France to the Dordogne Valley and Bordeaux in June. Then in September to make the most of the wine harvest we will be travelling through the Dordogne Valley for the first week and then flying to Lisbon, Portugal, to begin 11 days of exciting touring there.

Why tour with me?
My passion and speciality over the last twenty years has been France. Getting to know its people, culture, history, food, wines, festivals and its unique regions better than most. Each tour encompasses many different experiences not just focussing on one thing. I want people to understand the country they are travelling through, to understand the people, and at the same time to be inspired and moved by what they see.  But most importantly I want you to have a holiday – I take the angst out of travelling! I see my role as an educator, an entertainer, and a friend!

So this is what I have planned for 2012:

The South of France – from East to West

June 2 to 17, 2012

Experience the beauty of the Riviera!

This tour travels from the fishing village of Villefranche sur Mer, near Nice, in the east, through to the heart of Provence in the Rhone Valley, then on through the Languedoc region, before exploring the Dordogne Valley, ending in Bordeaux. We begin in the Riviera by following the lives of the great impressionist and abstract artists of the early 20th century, before seeing beautiful boat harbours, beaches and villas impossible to imagine. Then in Provence we experience the quintessential village life enjoying magnificent scenery and light, as well as markets, wine and food, as well as understanding the important place this region holds in European development. We then experience the pink flamingos and oyster farms of the Camargue as we head through to medieval Carcassonne where we delve into the mysteries of Dan Brown and the Cathar wars. After exploring the Canal du Midi we drop in to the beautiful Dordogne Valley where you will be transported into a verdant picture postcard scene, where we are going to explore breath-taking Chateaux, prehistoric caves and one of the most beautiful gardens in France, and even try our hand at truffle hunting! Then we head towards Bordeaux where we are going to see the best of wines in the richest surroundings from Sauternes, to St Emilion, to Pauillac in the Medoc – you will never look at wine the same again!

Dordogne River

This will be a tour of bright blue skies and sunshine as I introduce you to all there is to know about France and especially the south of this country. The variations from region to region are astounding, and the contrasts you will see will amaze you. This will be a tour that makes a difference!

 

 

 

 

The Three Ps – Perigord, Portugal and Paris

September 3 to 19, 2012

This year I travelled through both the Perigord (Dordogne Valley) and Portugal with a group, and I loved it so much I just had to show my travellers these gems – this tour especially has been timed to maximise the wine harvest which will be in full pace.

Geese - a feature of the Perigord region

We will start with 6 nights deep in the Dordogne Valley where we are going to explore the land of Foie Gras, Magret de Canard and perched medieval Chateaux. We are going to explore caves where we will see art work from 20,000 years ago which is as advanced as anything we see today. We will visit the glorious gardens of Eyrignac and enjoy the wonderful rolling green hillsides so rich in forest and fauna. We will see places such as Roque-Gageac, Domme, Sarlat. As we move down the valley toward St Emilion where we will stay at a Chateau amongst the vines we will be in the heart of the vendange (harvest). Tractors laden with grapes will hold us up on the narrow roads as we explore the Premier Cru wines of St Emilion, Sauternes, and the Medoc, being tempted by and tasting wines such as Chateau Guiraud, Lynch-Bages, Pichon Longueville etc.

Marvao - a dramatic village in the Alentejo, Portugal

Then we will head to Lisbon, Portugal, where I can’t wait to blow you away with this extraordinary country. We have eleven days in Portugal and we will start in the wonderful city of the great explorers, Lisbon, before travelling to coastal walled villages seeing Obidos and Alcobaca, before heading inland into the rural Alentejo region. Wait to be surprised at this extraordinary land of cork trees and impressive views. Then we proceed to an even greater highlight as we descend in to the renowned Duoro Valley, called the “valley of gold” for a number of reasons. Prepare to have your breath taken away! Then we head to Porto for the last night.

This is a tour of exceptional beauty. The scenery and the friendliness of the people take priority over lessons of historical importance, although by the end of the tour you will well understand this great country.

Need more information?

If you are interested in joining me on one of these tours, contact me (john@france.co.nz) and I will send you detailed tour descriptions and prices. Please note that I take a maximum of 8 pers, so contact me quickly so you don’t miss out on a place!

Posted in France, Portugal, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Auvers sur Oise – Dining with Vincent Van Gogh

October 10, 2011 by John in France

On that starry, starry night,

You took your life, as lovers often do.

But I could have told you, Vincent,

This world was never meant for one

As beautiful as you.

Don McLean’s hit song “Vincent” captured for us the agony suffered by Vincent Van Gogh as he tried to live his life. I have stood many evenings in the village of St Remy de Provence in the south of France looking at this painted scene, and then being transported within the image of this scene as captured by Vincent Van Gogh in 1889.

In June I travelled just over an hour by train outside of Paris to the village of Auvers sur Oise.  Vincent had been suffering very badly from depression in the south of France, and his brother Theo had helped arrange for him to travel to Auvers sur Oise to live in the same town as a doctor friend, Doctor Gachet, who was well versed in treating such medical conditions.

Doctor Gachet had arranged for Vincent to stay in the local Auberge, the Auberge Ravoux.  He was offered a bedroom upstairs, and used to take all his meals in the dining room on the ground floor.

On arrival in Auvers sur Oise my wife and I walked past the church that Vincent had made so famous in his paintings, and continued to the cemetery where he lies alongside his brother Theo. From here we walked across the wheat fields under the scorching summer sun. When in the middle of this field we paused. The wheat was like a sea of golden sheaths gently swaying in the warm breeze. Overhead flew black menacing crows. This was the last scene Vincent Van Gogh knew, and this was the last scene that he painted. Vincent shot himself. He was carried back to the Auberge Ravoux to his bedroom where they attempted to revive him. He was carried from the Auberge through the dining room in a plain pine coffin.

Here lies...

"They are immense expanses of grain under clouded sky, and I have not hesitated to try to express melancholy and extreme loneliness" Vincent Van Gogh July 1890

We walked back to the Auberge Ravoux to the same dining room.  This dining room has been preserved not only to remember the life of one of the greatest artists ever, but to celebrate and preserve the cuisine of the late 19th century. A visit to this dining room is a treat of monumental proportions!

We walked into the dining room, and it was as if we had stepped in to a page of a story book, or directly into the year 1890 – the elegant table and chairs, the exquisitely crafted tiled floor. The whole place gives you this aura of homeliness and a feeling of comfort, a place important for your body and soul. Today we were going to sit down and eat!

Dining Room at the Auberge Ravoux in Auvers sur Oise

We had been longing to eat here for many years. We had a wide choice of dishes, all of which were prepared as if by your grand-mother for her favourite grand-child!

Entrees:

Scallops with Baby Artichokes, Mushroom Cream and Truffles

Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus

Marinated Herring and Salmon with Potatoes en Vinaigrette

Medley of Exotic Mushrooms with Hazelnuts

Marinated Herring and Salmon - heavenly!

Main:

Seven Hour Lamb Ravoux style with Sautéed Potatoes and Smoked Salmon slab

Fricassee of Rabbit of Rabbit with White Wine, Herbs, Pearl Onions and Sautéed Potatoes

Burgundy Style Beef Stew

Seven Hour Cooked Lamb - cooked to be so tender it should be able to be eaten with a spoon!

Potatoes Dauphinois

Dessert:

Dark Chocolate Soufflé Cake with Crème Anglaise

Cherry Clafouti

Warm Tarte Tatin with Crème Fraiche

 

Auberge Ravoux in Auvers sur Oise

Needless to say every mouthful, and every local flavour were a treat to the senses – I long to return to let other travellers with me experience this thrill.

In my business in designing holidays for travellers in France, I often have people say to me “I don’t need to go to Paris as we had two nights there in 1995, and we did everything then”.

The visit to Auberge Ravoux near Paris is fortunately not part of the mass tourism market, and our visit here reminded me of all the things that are good about life;  family dinners, friends and love, and of the comforts of a warm comforting home. It also reminds me of those two day tourists, and all they miss out on while checking off their check list of mass-tourist destinations!

“In the world there are a few unique places that in their essential nature embody all of the emotions of a period. The Auberge Ravoux is one such place” (quote “Van Gogh’s Table” by Alexandra Leaf and Fred Leeman).

One happy diner! That's me - but why are the wine glasses empty?

 

To get here:

From Paris:  RER C to Pontoise (St-Ouen L’Aumone), then SNCF to Auvers sur Oise (approx. 1h30)

Cook Book: Van Gogh’s Table at the Auberge Ravoux, by Alexandra Leaf and Fred Leeman (ISBN I-57965-182-8)

Visit: Auberge Ravoux

Posted in Art and Photography, France, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 36 Comments »

Carcassonne – I was there in the year 1209.

October 4, 2011 by John in France

No one will believe what I am about to write. When I set off from my hotel (www.lemontmorency.com/content/) beneath the fortified town of Carcassonne I was planning on a gentle stroll through the cobbled streets before having a cooling beer and quiet dinner at the end of a long day entertaining clients on my current tour of south west France.
It was 7pm as I approached the Cathedral of Carcassonne. From the square in front of the church the spine-tingling rich tones of an organ reached out from the inside of the church drawing me inside. It was incredible. The last of the late summer sun was all directed through the stained glass windows, leaving a kaleidoscope of colours through the nave of this 11th century church. On top of this there was this music that completely enveloped the place. I was the only one here as the music and atmosphere enveloped me.

Sitting in the Cathedral in Carcassonne

When churches were built, one of their purposes was to seduce you and to give you a quiet moment from the trials and stresses of daily life. I was seduced!
I sat down at the back of this large church, all alone. As I sat and marvelled at my privileged situation here in Carcassonne, a young man came and sat next to me. What on earth  was he wearing  – a beautiful military style tunic with gold braiding on his epaulets, and riding boots which were caked in thick red dried  mud. Was this some sort of joke? There was something that worried me about this young man. He was probably in his early twenties, but he carried the rank and appearance of someone very important. He looked so concerned, and wore premature lines around his eyes, even though his skin was heavily tanned and smooth  – I really couldn’t guess his age.
“Isn’t this a beautiful place” I suggested to this stranger.
“Yeah, it’s beautiful, and I hope it can help me get out of a situation. I’m in real trouble” said my stranger. “Look” he carried on, “I’m Roger-Raymond, the Count of Carcassonne, and I’ve got the French Army two days away, and they plan to get rid of all of us”.
I’m sorry, the Count of Carcassonne is sitting with me? Not possible. It must be the year 1209! I check my watch – that doesn’t help, it says it’s 7.14pm.
The ridiculous thing is, I know this man. I’ve read about him over the years, so I know where we are. The French King and the Pope’s forces are after him. This young man of only 24 years old controls a large chunk of south west France. This area is full of people who have a different view on Christianity than that demanded by the Pope. The Cathars as they were called practiced a Christianity that dealt with love and shared responsibilities between women and men. As well Roger-Raymond has towns of Jews which he controlled, like Beziers and Narbonne. The King and Pope had asked him to rid his land of these people. Bit heavy don’t you think?

Porte Narbonne, La Cite, Carcassonne

“Why shouldn’t all these people be allowed to practice their own beliefs” Roger-Raymond said to me. “What really gets me is that all these people are such good folk”. “I’ve just been down to Beziers to try and negotiate with the French Army down there, and they weren’t even interested in me – I reckon they just want a fight”. “But at least I had time to warn all the Jews in Beziers to get right out of there, and hopefully they took my advice”, he continued.
I look at my watch again, hoping it might confirm the date. No, it’s 7.20pm. No-one could believe me –  the year 1209.
“I’ll do anything to protect my people when the French army arrive here, which I’m sure they will, but we can’t compete with their numbers. Do you know that the Pope has said if the French troops fight for 30 days they get a free pass to heaven? I’m sorry I think that’s sick. So of course, every man and his dog want to join their army!” Roger-Raymond explains. His long shoulder-length brown hair falls forward partially hiding the sadness and stress in his eyes.
At that moment a guard runs in to the church. “Sir, an emissary has just arrived from Trebes which needs your urgent attention”.  Roger-Raymond stands abruptly, moves to the centre of the church aisle and graciously and deeply bows before the altar. He turns, but before rushing from the church, he comes over to me and firmly shakes my hand “Monsieur, I bid you farewell, and ask that you make an early escape from my town. God bless you!” With that he left the church!
The organ music came to a dramatic crescendo, and then it stopped. The sound of silence in the church echoed deafeningly. I could hardly breathe, and my shirt was clinging to me with sweat. So I brushed past some camera bearing tourists at the front door and escaped into the warm fresh air. I felt I had to run away from the church. I ran over the cobbled streets, but the cobbles were so rough and uneven that I had to stop and walk. I needed a cold beer! So I soon found an empty table on the central square, and promptly ordered a drink.
I don’t know what had just happened. No-one will believe me. But I thought about Roger. Did he know what was in-store? Did he know that the French would surround his town? Did he know that he was going to run out of water in 14 days, because he hadn’t provided enough water cisterns in his town? Did he know that the French would seize him illegally during planned surrender negotiations? Oh no, I must warn him about that? Maybe I can change his future?

This is the home of Roger-Raymond Trencavel - Chateau Comtal

I had just gone out for a beer and dinner, and now this.  Should I try and warn him. Yes! I couldn’t get the attention of the barman who seemed to be more interested in a young beautiful girl than me (that’s fair!), so I left 5 Euro on the table and left. I made my way past all the diners and headed towards the Chateau Comtal, which was the inner fortress of Carcassonne (La Cité) where Roger-Raymond Trencavel lived. At the top of the main street was his Chateau. From a distance I could see the impressive impregnable walls of Roger’s sanctuary and the powerful welcoming gates. I was excited, my heart was pounding as I approached. I felt lucky. Diners were overflowing on to the uneven footpaths, and tourists were digitally capturing all these images, and I was thinking how they wouldn’t believe what I was about to do.
I crossed the forecourt of the Chateau to the gate. It was locked, and I could see no-one. There must be someone here. I searched around, until I saw a white sign the size of an A4 piece of paper.
“Chateau Comtal, 11eme siècle (11th century)
Opening Times:  10h00 – 17h00
Closed:  Christmas Day
Tarrif: 9 Euro pp
Confused I turned from the gate and slowly made my way down the main street. I imagined the families sheltering in their homes, worrying about what lay ahead. They weren’t to know that their town would be sieged for two weeks before Roger-Raymond was arrested. They weren’t to know that Roger negotiated their safe release, at his own peril. Roger-Raymond never saw his 25th birthday. But as I left the fortified medieval town through the impressive Porte de Narbonne I thought of this young man who perished while trying to protect his own people – people of any race or colour, people of any belief or religion, and I saluted him.
I made my way back to my hotel, and planned for another exciting day on tour (www.france.co.nz) .

Troops had to breach two fortified walls to access the town - this is the space between the walls (known as "les lices" in French!)

Posted in France, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , | 32 Comments »

Neighbors at War: the joys of Paris apartment living

August 30, 2011 by John in France

Sarah Reese shares the joys and surprises of living in Paris.
“You’re walking too loudly,” my fiery Spanish downstairs neighbor roared at me and my flatmate. “I’m going mad here,” she continued, “I can’t sleep, I can’t work, I’ve even looked into renting another apartment because you both WALK too LOUDLY!” Smoke billowed out of her ears, her eyes blazed in anger, and her high-pitched rant continued, suggesting we should go out and buy some slippers and tiptoe across our floor instead of walk.
Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Paris and the joys of apartment living. (I admit this is probably not one of the most intellectual articles I have ever written, but I seriously need to get this off my chest.)
After having moved out of my apartment and away from the raging Andalusian bull, this story had slipped to the back of my mind after three months of two-storey luxury in Wellington, New Zealand. However, on my return to France, my patience was once again put to the test after we received a knock at the door one morning. There, at our doorstep, was our building’s guardian. “I’m here following a number of complaints we’ve received in the last few days,” she said sternly, “about the…towels you have been drying on your window-sill.”

Caught in the act: Towel drying in Paris!

I look at her blankly.
I stood there in silence, half-expecting Ashton Kutcher to jump in and say I’ve been Punk’d. He didn’t show. “The towels?!” I finally exclaim. “Yes. We really can’t have anything showing on the window-sill I’m afraid. It is a very poor image for our building,” she explained, “It is, of course, in the contract.” Ah, the contract…how silly of me to have missed such a crucial part of our living arrangements!
It didn’t end there. The following day, World War III broke out. I was in the kitchen washing up from breakfast when I heard someone from the footpath yell up to my boyfriend at our first-floor window. I could hear a muffled argument taking place and wondered what on earth it could be about this time (seeing I had already dried the towels on the clothes-horse that morning.) It was worse than I ever expected. This time, we were being treated like felons for having our (drum roll please…) pots of herbs on the window-ledge. (OH. MY. GOD.)  “They’re not secure there!” an ancient member of our apartment block shrieked from the footpath. After being questioned on this, this little old man (and he is little…) explained that as soon as it rains, they could “easily fall and hurt a passerby.” “But we paid a lot for these and we intend on using them,” my boyfriend explained (relatively calmly, I must say.) “Well,” continued Old Man, “you’ll pay a lot more for a life…”

The deadly herb pots!

Okay, so let’s explain the herb situation a bit better… As you can see by the attached photo, we have three pots of herbs (thyme, parsley, and basil if you must know) sitting on our window ledge. In front of these pots is the bar of our metal shutters, ensuring they do not fall. And in front of that bar, we have twenty-eight centimeters before the ledge drops off to the street below. But here he is, telling us that our innocent little pots of culinary delights could easily jump the bar, walk twenty-eight centimeters, then drop and kill someone. And pigs can fly.
What I don’t get about all this is that we consider ourselves exemplary neighbors; we don’t have parties (well, not many), we don’t have children, we don’t have animals, we don’t smoke, we recycle, we attend (and bring food to) the annual Fête des Voisins, and well, we don’t walk that loudly either. Why is it then that we feel like such criminals in our own home?! And also…do they have nothing else to do with their time than inspect our window-sills. Pfft, seriously.

No towels and no herbs; an exemplary Parisian apartment block.

I discussed my frustration with a friend over lunch the other day. Funnily enough she was not at all surprised by the carry-on at our place. “You should see the madam who lives below me!” she laughed, “I was vacuuming my apartment one day just after lunch, and she turned up and forbade me to vacuum, explaining that she works night shifts and needs to sleep during the day.” I beg your pardon?!
After pondering about this for a while, I wondered briefly whether this petty nonsense was just a French thing, or does this come with any sort of apartment living? I’m curious…have you had any bad experiences with your neighbors? If so, make sure you share your stories with me so I know I’m not alone.
Look I better go, someone’s at the door. It’s probably the guardian…

Posted in France, Paris, Travel | Tagged , | 29 Comments »

Portugal Photo Paradise

August 24, 2011 by John in France

To entertain you I’d like to share with you some of my favourite photos of Portugal following my recent escorted tour through that country. The most outstanding thing for me with this country was the warmth of the Portugese people and some of the most astoundingly beautiful countryside.

The village of Obidos is one of the prettiest walled towns you will find anywhere!

 

When in Obidos walk down the main street and sample the cherry brandy out of a chocolate cup - all in the mouth in one go!!! Mmmmm.

 

Marvao - a perched village in the Alentejo region.

 

Even from our breakfast table in Marvao the views were to die for!

 

A view from the citadel of Marvao overlooking the plains 1000 feet below looking over the Spanish border.

 

Marvao the Photogenic!

 

Cork trees grow all through the Alentejo region. It takes more than 40 years before you get your first worthwhile crop of cork from a tree!

 

The home of Port wine - the Duoro Valley. Some of the most beautiful countryside in the world!

 

Being treated to beautiful home dinners in the Douro Valley at the Quinta da San Jose.

Any visit to Portugal needs a tasting of port wines in Porto; Sandemans, Burmesters, Crofts etc.

 

Posted in Portugal, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , | 19 Comments »

Lisbon – Arrival in Portugal

August 16, 2011 by John in France

Portugal has been featuring regularly in the world media at present. Will there be another financial bailout for this country, as it struggles to survive financially?

This is the scene that was set for me as I chose at the last minute to lead an escorted tour through Portugal. (Read about why I chose Portugal here).

Lisbon was flattened by an earthquake in 1755, and because of this I was most interested in seeing how the city re-built itself in to the city that it is today. As I flew in over the river I had no idea what to expect.

Rossio Square, Lisbon

I drove in from Lisbon airport down wide tree-lined boulevards, past large communal squares humming with entertainment, past attractive elegant consistently designed buildings on the way to my super elegant hotel only steps from the centre of town.

I share with you my Top 4 observations on Lisbon.

1. Lisbon – Post-Earthquake

The first thing that impressed me was the post-earthquake rebuild. The prime-minister of the time, Marquês de Pombal had insisted on wide boulevards and open spaces – locals at the time thought that he had lost his head insisting on such large roadways, when the form of transport at the time was on horseback. Of course now nearly 250 years later he is looked on as being a visionary.

2. Portugal – The Grand Superpower

Monument to the Discoveries, Belem

In the 15th century the Portugese were the undisputed world superpower.  People such as Vasco da Gama and Fredinand Magellan  ventured out and helped create an empire which spread from South America through Asia including China and India.  This is the city of explorers and to be able to see the richness of their life from this time was a treat. As Portugal progressed from the 15th century and raced towards the 20th century the city still entertained and lived the rich life of world leaders with a vast collection of embassies and palaces
in the hills beyond Lisbon city. Back 5 centuries ago the King of Portugal was known to travel to visit the Pope making his impressive entrance to Rome on a fleet of golden carriages with horses hooved in solid gold! Such a back drop is interesting when assessing the financial health of Portugal today.

3. Lisbon – the City and its Culture

To walk down the pedestrian street Rue Augusta from the river-front at Praca do Comercio is a treat! You walk across glorious pavements presented in mosaic tiles creating their own perfect works of art. You pass sensitively designed shop fronts that appear as if they are meant to be there, with no shop front clashing with the next. You slowly make your way up the
narrow streets on any one of the seven hills surrounding the city only to experience a visual triumph of charming narrow streets,  breath-taking tiled facades to the building fronts, open-spaced communal squares, with teasing viewpoints out over this city, which is criss-crossed with old colourful electric trams. The colourful bars and restaurants and cafés with their world famous pastry counters are never far away from a flagging tourist!

Rue Augusta towards the Praca do Comercio

Fado music and their restaurants would be one of the highlights of Lisbon.  Fado music is a soulful  folk music which usually consists of a solo singer being accompanied often by two 12 string guitars. The music and songs follows melancholic themes of love. The Maitre d’ of the famous Club de Fado, Miguel Fernandas, mentioned that in these songs the singer sings about the loves in their life, always while referring about their country and their history. An evening of Fado singing will inspire you. Listen to Dulce Pontes – Cancao do Mar

4. The Portugese People

One of the joys of travel is to experience the people of the countries you visit. From the taxi driver, to the staff in the hotel lobby, to the servers in the cafés, to the local tour guides, I only ever experienced a richness of people that astounded.

Here were a proud people who were the great adventurers of the world, who still had the spirit as if they still were the great discoverers. They carried on their shoulders a richness of spirit, which maybe derives from the rich history that their country played in the globalisation of history. Portugal represents the best we can find in the human spirit. As we read of their country’s  financial crisis we must separate this out as being a political quagmire and issue, and that this personal spirit of Portugal will come to the fore in restoring their political pride in the years ahead.

 

I have recently finished leading a ten day escorted tour through Portugal, starting in Lisbon and ending in Porto. Over the next weeks I will share with you my experiences of this wonderful journey. You may want to keep an eye on www.france.co.nz for information on future tours of Portugal.

For my stay in Lisbon I especially would like to thank:

Alberto Rouiller from www.BestinPortugal.com

Miguel Carvalho – Portugese National Tourist Office in New York

Obrigado!

Praca do Comercio, Lisbon - where the Royal Palace was before being destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.

The Garden of the Imperial Palace, Belem

Posted in Portugal, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 29 Comments »

Summer in Europe

August 8, 2011 by John in France

How many hours do you have in a day? Never enough!

Over the last two months I have been escorting tour groups through Portugal and France. Every minute of each day I have been moved by beautiful views, interesting people, and offered the chance to share with other people my knowledge of history and life in Europe.

But when you are travelling for long periods of time from a suitcase and the glove box of a bus, some things have had to give. Travel blogging has been one thing that has had to take a back seat in the short term. But I am now back living out of my home wardrobe and am ready again to share with you a range of enticing and rich stories of travelling through France and elsewhere.

One place I was especially moved by on my travels was Portugal, and I look forward to the opportunity to take more travellers back there in the future.

Lisbon was completely rebuilt following the 1755 earthquake.

Of course all New Zealanders have been deeply affected by the Christchurch earthquakes over the last year, and for me Lisbon was a beacon of hope for us all. Lisbon was devastated by an earthquake over 200 years ago and seeing their rebuild was extraordinary, and I look forward to sharing with you stories on this. Even while touring through this rebuilt city from 200 years ago, my own family were living in a hotel as our house was being re-built from the results of our own quake – but on a personal aside, after 12 weeks of living in a hotel my family have now returned to our repaired house with level floors, walls, and ceilings, and it’s bliss to be back!

I travelled back to Provence with its vibrant colours and smells and look forward to sharing my stories of our visits to beautiful gardens and even the local bullfighting!

Provencale Bull Fighting - Jeux Provencaux

Vincent Van Gogh was such a tortured soul and I especially enjoyed taking people to the auberge just outside of Paris, where he last lived (and where he died), to sample food – the same meals that he dined on 120 years ago. I will share these menus with you in the months ahead!

So although I have been away from the blogosphere, I have been busy entertaining travellers and myself with the joys of travelling through France and Europe, and look forward to sharing my travels with you in the weeks ahead.

Posted in France, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , | 13 Comments »

Faites de la Musique!

June 22, 2011 by John in France

This year’s Fête de la Musique  has dawned upon us once again.  Each year on June 21 over one hundred countries in the northern hemisphere band together in one big fat musical fiesta to celebrate the beginning of summer.

Born in 1976 in France, La Fête de la Musique has become a true highlight on the annual cultural calendar with endless concerts, street performances, and busking organized everywhere. Whether it’s Edith Piaf or Bon Jovi you’re in to, there will inevitably be something there for everyone to enjoy.

The city of Paris awaits this evening's annual Fete de la Musique

If you are in Paris tonight, and looking for some toe-tapping action, check out The AB Factory concert at the L’Embuscade bar near Oberkampf. Following the recent release of their album Archie Mule, this guitar/bass/banjo/mandolin/ukele combo proves to be a great night out for those who like a musical cocktail consisting of folk, blues, and acoustic with a sprinkling of country.

You can also click on this link  to check out what else is happening in France’s capital tonight.

As the Martha and the Vandellas once chanted,

All we need is music, sweet music, 
There’ll be music everywhere 
There’ll be swingin’ swayin’, and records playin, 
Dancin’ in the street 

Have fun and faites de la musique!

The AB Factory in Concert
L’Embuscade
31 Rue de Crussol
Paris 11ème
Metro Oberkampf
20h00
 

Posted in France, News, Paris, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 8 Comments »

Change of Travel Plans!

May 26, 2011 by John in France

You’ve planned this great holiday through Egypt and Tunisia. Then the news headlines come “Riots in the Streets of Cairo”. What on earth do you do? Do you go on your planned trip? So you change your plan and you organise a cruise through Scandanavia starting in Oslo. Your bags are packed and then you read the headlines “New Volcano in Iceland blows its top!”. What on earth do you do?

It sounds like this traveller is having a dose of the bad luck blues, doesn’t it.  Well actually it’s all of us, you and me. It’s without doubt that we have all been in a similar situation more than once in our travelling life.

In my travel planning business over the last twenty years I’ve experienced everything; two Iraq wars, nationwide strikes through France (often!!), Bird Flu, the attacks of 9/11, volcanoes, recessions and regular regional country unrest.

There's always something that may disrupt our travel plans? What do you do?

On 1 June this year I have had a trip planned escorting a tour group through Morocco and the South of France.  Four weeks ago however I advised my group that I had cancelled my group travelling through Morocco, and instead we were going to travel to Portugal. My travel members were beginning to show anxiety to the Arab unrest that was sweeping the north of Africa. I advised them that it could have been possible to proceed but that we would need an escape plan in place in case things turned nasty in that country. John, one of my travellers said “but when I go on holiday I don’t want to worry about anything – I never want to be looking behind me to see if any trouble is brewing”.

So instead we are now going to Portugal, Provence and Paris, and we are going to have a ball!

Anyway, days after making the decision not to travel to Morocco, there were headlines announcing the bombing in the central square in Marrakech, where ten tourists were killed. So we travel to other destinations with a good feeling in our travel legs!!

But now that we are just about to begin our tour of Portugal, where I will arrive in a few days, we get news of another volcano – if it’s not one thing it is another!!

What is the situation when you have to cancel your travel plans. Travel insurance will certainly cover you for travel plans disrupted by health and other issues, but when it comes to unrest in a country, the situation is very complicated. Most travel insurance companies will only reimburse you in “extreme” situations – even if your country offers a travel advisory not to travel to a country this is not enough to immediately claim for a travel insurance reimbursement.

So on Wednesday I meet my group in Lisbon, where we will begin our three week tour. So providing no more international disasters take place in the next few days, think of me over the weekend sitting in a plane for several days as I happily make my way to Portugal about to being our own “journey of discovery”.  I look forward to updating you on my progress!

I’ll go to Morocco another time!

Posted in Holiday, Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 12 Comments »

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