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Striking Accord?

Striking has been a national pastime for the French. If ever anyone is unhappy with anything then the first action is to strike. Other European countries look on in amusement as the French regularly leave their desks to walk the streets with placards.

I recall a number of years ago when Air France was on the brink of bankruptcy, and a new Chief Executive was given the job of turning around the fortunes of the national carrier. His proposal included plans to restructure the aircraft service sector, involving the redundancy of staff. These plans were critical to the future of the airline.

Immediately a strike was called. The airline stopped flying. The workers marched in the streets. The President apologized for having upset them with these plans. The President cancelled the restructuring plans, and the Chief Executive left the job! This is usually how it works!

This week in France, everyone is marching and striking as the government proposes to pass legislation raising the retirement age from 60 to 62 years old. Most European countries have a retirement age of between 65 and 67 years old.

A recent poll says that over 70% of the public are in favour of these strikes. President Sarkozy said yesterday: “It is perfectly normal and natural that [the pensions reform] has caused worry and opposition.  “This reform is essential and France has committed to putting it into place.”

So today road, rail and air travel is to be severely disrupted.

On the roads there are picketers blocking motorways and access to airports. Over 4000 petrol stations (30% of the national total) are empty of fuel, and the remainder of service stations are limiting fuel available for purchase. Prime Minister François Fillon held a crisis meeting yesterday afternoon in which he pledged to get petrol stations topped up again within “four to five days”.

A large number of schools and universities are also blocked by students who are also feeling aggrieved by the government plans, even though this legislation won’t affect them for 50 years! There was even a school burnt down in Le Mans, which barely got a mention in the French media! 

Air travel is in chaos, and anyone presently in France should check with your airline first, as cancellations and delays are likely throughout France.

Half of flights via Paris Orly are cancelled and 30 per cent at Charles de Gaulle.

Air France says it will run all its scheduled long-haul flights, but has warned of last-minute delays and cancellations on shorter routes.

On the train tracks the situation is no different. Unions say more than a third of train staff will be striking today. The SNCF has reminded passengers that tickets will be accepted on any valid route and anyone wishing to cancel can do so without a penalty.

TGVs: 60 per cent of services into and out of Paris are running, but only a quarter of province-province routes bypassing the capital.

Eurostar: Running a normal service. Thalys is also running after yesterday’s Belgian rail strike, with nine out of 10 trains operating as normal.

In Paris: Near-normal service on metro, bus and trams. RER A running two thirds of trains and RER B only half. No connecting trains at the Gare du Nord.

Due to strikes at the nuclear power plants, France has had to import record quantities of electricity even. On Wednesday they imported 5,990 Mw, which equalled the equivalent of the production of 6 nuclear reactors.

You can see some news items on French TV, and I especially recommend looking at the item titled « Operation Escargot », which is where trucks purposefully drive at about 5km/h along a motorway – a wonderful disruptive display ! (These items are in French)

However President Sarkozy has said there will be “no backdown” – he has appealed for calm but insists he will press ahead with plans to raise the retirement age. The controversial legislation was set to be approved by the Senate today, but the vote has been delayed and is now expected to pass in the next days.

Let’s see what happens next?

Flying by Train!

The lengths we go to, to get to Paris!

Travel by fast train around Europe has revolutionized travel. Now it is nearly as fast to travel from central Paris to the south of France, as it is by travelling by air, and it is certainly much faster by train than air between London and Paris.  With trains there is no need for airport transfers from the central city to the airport, and no reporting times two hours before your flight.

Eurostar and the SNCF have especially revolutionized travel from London to a number of European cities, especially Paris. To think I can travel from Paris to the south of France in 2h40 is amazing – if I was driving from Paris I would only have just left the city boundaries by the time I arrived by train in Avignon in the south!

Eurostar has just announced that construction will begin next year of a new edition fast speed train which will travel even fast than at present. Top speed will be 320 Km/h and a journey from London to Paris will only take 2 hours. Eurostar plans to use these trains especially for longer destinations to places like Frankfurt, Geneva, and Nice.

What you will especially like about these trains will be the most advanced wi-fi and on-board infotainment, including real-time travel information, video-on-demand, music and news feeds.

The one major issue I can see is that the new train carriages will be constructed by the non-French Seimens Co. and be furnished by the Italian company Pininfarina. As the French company SNCF are the major shareholders, and can see the pride of the French being compromised here, and feel we may hear more about it in the future!

You can see it here.

If you need to purchase any train tickets around Europe, and especially in France it will be worth reading the following article.

If you are especially interested in reading about trains then you will enjoy spending time on this blog “Trains on the Brain”.

Cricket and Curry!

This is not a story about France. This is a story of travel. I came to India as a 17 year old in 1975 and swore I would never return!

I’m writing this today from Mumbai (Bombay, India)!!

Why?

My wife and I are visiting our son. Alexander is in India for three months training and playing cricket. He is 19 years old and on his own in this challenging city. After only two weeks he now speaks some Hindi and only eats Indian food for all meals. He trains seven days per week, for 8 hours per day in 40 degrees (Celcius) temperatures with 90% humidity.

We knew what to expect when we came here. We have seen in the evening homeless people by the thousands sharing the footpaths with wild dogs in order to sleep. We have seen families sleeping together with no shelter on traffic roundabouts piled with the ever present litter and surrounded by the stench of heat, humidity and humanity. We have visited slums as large as suburbs. We have been constantly pestered by mothers holding their young children begging, little urchins selling leis, grown men selling giant balloons and drums to take home! We have been taken to small local eateries that will never appear in any travel guide book, stepping over the usual squalor and filth to the scrupulously clean traditional restaurant with the tastiest, cheapest food we have ever had. We have had coffee amid the luxurious world famous opulent Taj Hotel, with shops of Louis Vuitton and Dior awaiting your beaded purse! We have been treated to a meal and drinks at the exclusive Cricket Club at the Brabourne Stadium – the home of Sachin Tendulkar, where cocktails are served at the end of each day on the cricket pitch, while one sits on wicker chairs.

We’ve just returned from visiting a nearby slum. Yes, there was the stench, heat, filth, overcrowding, but only to be greeted by the happiest faces of the children as they went about their day. This is a land of contrasts, as understated as that is.

I often hear travelers to France who comment that “the only thing wrong with France, is the French”. Usually such a comment comes about because someone has received what they perceive to be slow service in a restaurant, or issues caused through problems with language. Such comments are insular, short-sighted, and ridiculous.

People make up their own countries – their idiosyncrasies, tradition, history, religion, superstitions, food and music, all go in to make up a melting pot of what sets us apart culturally.

If the service is slow in a Parisian restaurant, could this just not be that this is their pace for eating and socializing? The French post offices and shops closed at the most inconvenient times – they are having their lunch with their families, with a wine!!

When visiting another country, take Alexander’s lead. Accept, absorb and appreciate all that it has to offer. This is India – the Indian Way!

Freight - Mumbai style!

Heartbreak at every turn.

A normal day in Mumbai!

Alex Reese plays cricket in India

Alexander leaves for cricket practice at 5.30am!

Alex finishes cricket practice - back for another shower!!

Zaheer Kahn's central Mumbai cricket club where he still goes to play.

Grapes ready for Harvest

In the heat of a late provencal summer afternoon I love a glass of chilled Rosé wine!

I am presently in Provence, France, living in the village of Caromb. Not only am I sharing the odd glass of Rosé with my darling wife, but we are right in the midst of the harvest for the 2010 vintage.

As you arrive in our village you know straight away the harvest of grapes is in full swing. You are greeted by a sign which warns you that the wine harvest, known as “vendange” is under way. “Vendange – Chaussée Glissante” – “Wine Harvest – Slippery Road Surface”. I’ve never seen a sign like this before welcoming you to a town!

This warning sign is relevant and required. From 6am in the morning until 6pm in the evening the streets are a constant flow of small work-horse tractors towing large trailers groaning with grapes bursting with precious juices. The roadsides are splattered with the excess grapes that seemed to escape their trailers only to be “juiced” early by the passing cars!

Beware Wine Harvest - Slippery Road Surfaces

We are in the wine appellation known as the Cote du Ventoux which specializes mainly in Rosé wines, and here the majority of wine is processed by the local cooperative with only a small minority producing their own wines at their own wineries. So it is clear that the local wine cooperative, St Marc, is abuzz with the processing of grapes. Each farmer empties his precious cargo in to the processing vat, where his load is weighed and recorded, then off he goes in his tractor to collect his next load of liquid gold, before again making his way back to the processing plant.

On the warm days the smell of fermenting grapes pervades the entire village – there is no escape from these intoxicating smells.

Wine Cooperative Processing, Caromb

It is as if we are truly living in the midst of a giant winery. The atmosphere is all invading, and the locals all express their excitement at this annual “event” that comes to their towns all over France. One local expressed his concern that now there is only a small fraction of hand picking done in this appellation, the spirit isn’t quite the same as it used to be – however mechanical harvesting is indeed more economical.

This process is being repeated in every wine growing village across France. The summer sunshine has done its work and now it is the turn of the winemakers to turn their produce in to a final product that people all around the world can buy from their local supermarket.

I’ve got to rush. The village bell has just chimed six times, so it must be 6pm and I’m ready for a wine!!

A votre santé!

PS You may like to see where I am presently staying in one of my favourite rental homes

Mechanical Harvesting in the Ventoux wine appellation

Harvested grapes are unloaded into the tractor's trailers.

It's hard work for every man and his dog!

Thierry, the owner of Domaine Pigeade smiles in satisfaction at his "new" Beaumes de Venise! Visit him at www.lapigeade.fr. Here's a happy man!

Market Appraisal!

There’s something about the French way of life that involves people planning their days around the village markets in France. It’s a routine each morning – work out what day it is, which can be hard when you are on holiday, and then work out which village has its market on that day.

Today is Sunday in Provence, so it is the time for Isle sur la Sorgue market in the Vaucluse district to have its market. But it’s not just any market! It specialises in bric a brac and antiques, as well as offering all the best food and wine of the region.

I wanted to share with you these images of our time at the market today. For those have been here before then enjoy re-living your times here at this market, and for those who have not experienced the French markets then I hope this successfully seduces you and makes you do something about changing that!

Potted Olives

Bric a Brac for Everyone!

The Freshest Produce!

One Man's Junk is another Man's Treasure!

Sunflowers at Provence Market

Coffee Lovers Mmmm!

Enjoy this Coffee

Imagine this Coffee in a Chocolate Cup! Mmm!

“I’ll have a coffee thanks” is a question heard regularly throughout the day in France. But what you receive when you ask this question varies noticeably depending on where you are. However if you are travelling through France, Italy or the rest of Europe, such a question will result in you being served a small espresso coffee – a short black!

Now I love an espresso coffee, but in Australia and New Zealand where I come from, such a drink is more of a novelty, and anyone drinking such a coffee will be looked at sideways! But in Europe this coffee is an important part of daily life.  Take a look at this coffee above which I recently came across in Italy – an espresso coffee in a chocolate dipped wafer cup. Mmmm! Bliss, yes!?

Coffee in Europe is very much part of the daily ritual! It provides a moment to catch up with friends, or just a moment to think!

As well, try leaving a restaurant without having a coffee at the end of your meal. “Are you sure you won’t have a coffee?” the waiter asks,  translates to “another bloody crazy  tourist!”.

The Europeans regard Coffee (ie short black espresso) as being used mainly to help digestion and to finish off a meal, and therefore at lunch or dinner it is ordered after the meal has been consumed. If you were to order a cappuccino to go with your spaghetti carbonara, expect a nasty look…from everyone.

To help you ordering your next coffee in France remember these words and translations to make sure you get what you want:

Espresso (short, black!): Café (pronounced car-fay)

Long Black: Café Americain (car-fay ameri-carn) or Allongé (allon – jay)

Milky Coffee:  Un crème  ( craime), or just Café au lait (car-fay o lay)

When ordering your coffee remember also that if you sit outside on the terrace of a café the price will be different than if you just stand at the bar.

Enjoy!

Nearly twenty years ago I made a definite decision that  I was to set up a business based on my loves.  I now specialise in French tourism and regularly travel to France to escort tours and look after my various rental properties in France, and check out the various canal boat trips.

At the moment I am in England seeing my 19 year old son before he heads to India to play cricket. I am on my way to escort a tour through France.

It was 5.36pm (here in the UK) on Friday when I was driving through a typically narrow lane in Kent when my phone rang. “Dad, help me, my country is falling apart” my darling daughter chockingly (hysterically!) screamed. “Please can you get someone to help me”. She could barely breath with terror. What does a father do?

My daughter had just experienced the most traumatic event of her life as a major earthquake shattered the peace of our hometown Christchurch. No power, no lights, nothing!

She was alone. Dark. House dancing off its foundations. Masonry falling in our house through our normally tranquil lounge, and objects flying everwhere. “I thought I was going to be killed by a flying book” Sarah jokingly exclaimed having experienced this life changing experience. After several minutes of terror Sarah and the rest of Christchurch could assess the terrible damage that had struck them. The centre of town has been decimated by the power of this earthquake – I think it needs a name like a tropical storm! Thankfully there have been no fatalities, but one of our friends is fighting for his life in critical care at the moment, and we constantly think of him.

Following the earthquake the internet coverage made things so helpful. From the other side of the world we listened to constant radio coverage on NewstalkZB, to familiar voices of our radio hosts, as well as the Mayor of Christchurch, Bob Parker, who comfortingly talked the citizens through this disaster. For us so far away we thank them.

To be separated from your loved ones at such times is desperate. Even when things are all good I struggle with these separations.  When I started my business, which I like to describe as “the best job in the world”, every trip away to France was an emotional wrench for me as I regularly left behind those that I loved. I don’t mind admitting that I regularly cried myself to sleep in their absence while alone on tour in France.

Nearly twenty years later it’s not as hard, except at times like this. Next month I will have a son working in India, a daughter in New Zealand, and I will be here in France with my wife! Our blessing these days are the communications that are on offer to us making these separations completely bearable! Even during the quake I had contacted other family in Christchurch, and within minutes Sarah had been “rescued” from our home, and whisked away to the comfort of family.

There are always good things that come out of bad. Over the last few days I have been inundated with messages of love and concern from our friends and hotel staff throughout France and from my travel “clients” alike.

I’m pleased that those two minutes of terror are over, and feel blessed that our families are safe and well – buildings can be rebuilt, but lives can’t.

Christopher Nolan’s much-awaited, mind-bending blockbuster Inception sucked me into a dreamland far, far away. In the back of the Rennes movie theatre I was transported back to Paris, but not the Paris we know – a Paris where the streets could effortlessly fold on top of each other, where enormous fireless explosions popped up around the characters, and where you had the rare ability to turn heads at each street you walked down.  This certainly wasn’t the Paris I knew, but something that could exist in the deepest depths of our imaginations.

Nolan’s masterpiece had certainly tugged at the cords of my creativity and left me wanting more.  I wondered whether a land like that could ever exist in places other than our dreams. Little did I know, there was a place. A little town called Dinan, a mere one hour drive from Rennes in North-East Brittany.

Dinan is a fantastical mélange of charm, warmth, romance, mystery and colour, with a distinctive sprinkling of fairytale magic. This medieval town is cobbled together by an array of half-timbered buildings dating as early as the thirteenth century. Interspersed along the crooked streets and alleyways are a unique collection of small cafés, bars, local restaurants, boutique hotels, butchers, bakers and candle-stick makers. Also an assortment of shops of florists, artisans, and craftsmen create a relentless magnetic pull for tourists of any age and nationality.

Every year in July, the Dinan township celebrate the Fête des Ramparts, the medieval festival. This is an event not to be missed – a weekend where the township fish out the medieval costumes from their dress-up boxes and honour the roots of their small town. The apple cider flows, the music plays, and everyone is undeniably merry.  To avoid disappointment, accommodation should be booked months in advance as people flock from all over France to join in the festivities.

Trickling through the delightful township is the Rance River which continues its route to the sea at Saint Malo. Either hire a little boat or feast yourselves with typical Breton cuisine on the banks of the river to fully appreciate the beauty of this small corner of the world. For a local gastronomical delight, try the Crêperie des Artisans on Rue du Petit Fort in the heart of the township. Founded in 1975, this quaint restaurant will quite happily fill an empty stomach and leave you smiling for the rest of your voyage à Dinan.  After your meal, wander aimlessly through the cobbled streets and into your dreams.

Dinan is truly the dreamland I so longed for. It’s true; it exists. Allow yourself a full day’s visit or ideally an overnight stay at our very own dreamland only 400km from your Paris doorstep. And follow the breadcrumbs, you’ll never know where they might lead you….

For further information on Dinan visit www.dinan.net

For more information on the Fete des Ramparts check out this site: http://www.fete-remparts-dinan.com

Article and photos by Sarah Reese

The quaint township of Dinan on the edge of the Rance River, Brittany.

A charming medieval street in the township of Dinan, France

Charm, character, and gastronomical delights; The Creperie des Artisans, Dinan.

As we walk around Paris we can learn something more at every step we take. This plaque appears on the school next door to the Eglise St Severin on rue St Jacques. Nothing more needs to be said.

We will not forget the children.

To the Children who were exterminated.

To the memory of the children, pupils of this school, deported from 1942 to 1944 because they were born Jewish, innocent victims of the barbaric Nazis with the active support of the Vichy government.

They were exterminated in the death camps.

We will never forget them.

Falstaff:
I will not lend thee a penny.

Pistol:
Why then the world’s mine oyster,
Which I with sword will open.

Falstaff:
Not a penny.

This famous quote from William Shakespeare’s celebrated The Merry Wives of Windsor ran through my mind a few weeks ago when I travelled to the idyllic seaside village of Cancale (pronounced: con-karl) in north-west France for a surprise day-trip.

Cancale lies effortlessly on the coast just east of the popular Saint-Malo in Brittany. It is like stepping out of reality and into a painting. A string of small houses and restaurants cling to the shoreline like little dolls’ houses, lined up impeccably with a delicate touch of fantasy and romance. The village is so exquisitely picturesque attracting many visitors, many who are drawn by its reputation of the ‘oyster capital’ of France.

Cancale is, quite simply, a village that celebrates the small things in life – the love for food, the love for family and the respect for Mother Nature. Lining the water-front are countless cafés and restaurants all serving local seafood and produce. Any of the restaurants guarantee a good, local feed, using only the freshest and most divine ingredients. If you want something a little more fancy for a special occasion, the restaurant La Maison Blanche along the waterfront offers amazing service and fresh seafood with an interesting gastronomical twist.

Small food stalls are dotted along the beach, selling fresh oysters and other crustaceans. This is cuisine at its freshest and its best. You can come and sit along the ledge on the shoreline watching the hustle and bustle of this small town whilst feasting on only the finest seafood, at a very reasonable price. Below the ledge is a shoreline littered with a sea of empty oyster shells and lemon halves, a sneaky reminder of Cancale’s love for taste and simplicity.

The eight square kilometers of oyster beds can easily be seen from the pier or the harbor when the tide is out. These beds are the major activity at the port each year and harvest up to 25,000 tonnes of oysters per year. That, my friends, is a casual 500,000 normal-sized elephants worth of oysters! The quality of the Cancale oysters are well-reputed across the nation and even the world. Even France’s Louis XIV sat on his glitzy throne at Versailles and ordered oysters from Cancale – a bit like 17th century takeaways!

After exploring the beautiful Cancale, head out on foot to the Pointe du Gruoin for a stunning view across to Mont Saint Michel (weather-permitting!) before returning to the township later for a mug of local apple cider. Sounds pretty good to me!

William Shakespeare was right. The world is our oyster. The world’s riches are ours to leisurely pluck from its shell if we so desire. And why shouldn’t we?! Life is too short not to.

(Article and photos by Sarah Reese)

The picturesque township of Cancale, Brittany.

The Cancale waterfront, France.

A taste of Brittany; the Cancale oyster stalls.

The reasonably priced oyster stalls at the French seaside village, Cancale.

Enjoy your meal?! French cuisine at its best.

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