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What am I going to do for my 50th birthday?

Hide, throw a big party, enrol for a membership at the gym? All of these??

After much deliberation I chose to take my family to Paris in July for my big birthday. I decided against the big party – sorry to my friends! I didn’t need the gym membership – dreamer!  I didn’t want to hide, and Paris sounded perfect!

For my celebration I invited a family with children of the same age as my children – so there were to be four adults and 6 children under 19 years old – all teenagers.

So the plan was in place, and I would take everyone to a concert in the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, followed by a slap-up dinner afterwards. For me the Ste Chapelle offered me the ideal way of imposing two of my passions on the teenagers present – history and music!

Ste Chapelle was the Royal Chapel built by St Louis in the early 1200s. He wanted an impressive chapel befitting of the relics he returned from the Crusades with – a piece of wood from the cross that Jesus died on, and the crown of thorns. In the Middle Ages having relics of the Holy story was great for business, as everyone wanted to see them. It was the equivalent of 20th century tourism. The price paid for relics was extraordinary. To build the St Chapelle St Louis paid one third of the price of the relics to complete his masterpiece.

The Ste Chapelle is barely noticed by the tourist hordes of Paris, and hides amongst the austere surrounds of the Police Department only 400 metres from Notre Dame Cathedral.

Once within the chapel you are greeted by a magnificence difficult to describe. The walls of the chapel are all stained glass windows – walls of glass. As we arrived at our 7pm concert the sun had begun its late afternoon descent. The sunlight had turned the walls of the chapel in to what seemed like a waterfall of multi-coloured diamonds. There was an unequalled brilliance of light of every colour. Even for a teenager that affect made you stop breathing.

It was to this setting that Vivaldi’s Four Seasons struck up creating a precious sensory overload experience.

Before the sun had set for another day the concert was over, and we were back outside in the Police Department car park! I so wanted the young to be moved, and  had a feeling that Vivaldi wouldn’t  stand up against the likes of Britney Spears and Ronan Keating.

I hesitatingly enquired only to receive unanimous support that this was the best thing that they had ever seen.

It was then off to my birthday dinner sitting at a restaurant overlooking Notre Dame Cathedral – almost in heaven!

We are privileged to be able to experience such precious moments.

How to purchase tickets for concerts at Ste Chapelle:

Concerts are held every night during the summer at 7pm and 8.30pm. You can buy these in the week before the night you want to attend or if you turn up half an hour before you should be able to buy tickets at the door.  To pre-book tickets to ensure you get tickets I suggest you go to a FNAC store in Paris. Close by to the Ste Chapelle is a FNAC store on Blvd St Germain mid way between Blvd St Michel and the metro Odeon. Go to the shop and follow signs for “Billeterie” where you can buy your tickets – this is so much easier than standing in a long queue. Also you can purchase tickets to other museums like the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay, which will save you plenty of queuing! Enjoy the concert!!

Sainte Chapelle, Paris

We have ten days in France, what are we going to do?

After nearly twenty years of designing itineraries for travellers in France, this is a typical question I receive daily. A few days ago I had a couple contact me from Christchurch, NZ, who had just this request for travel, along with their adult son. They are starting from Marseille and are flying out of Paris in ten days time, and they are going to be doing this in the peak of August.

This is what I love!! So I put some options together for them with each option giving them different experiences. The itinerary looked fabulous to me. Staying firstly in the Var in a gorgeous bed and breakfast surrounded by olive trees and vines near the delightful village of Cotignac, then through to the animated village of St Remy de Provence with its extraordinary Wednesday market. Then through to Burgundy to stay in the prettiest town in Europe, Beaune, before heading to the heart of Champagne in Epernay, prior to driving directly through to the Charles de Gaulle airport to fly home!

But it’s August and busy and I want them to have a pool at each address. So I thought of my friends and their hotels in France and tried to imagine the places that would best suit these travellers, and whether they had any availabilities for them. So I sent off many requests to these hotels. Anyway I made it to my office the next day, Saturday, to check on the progress of my requests hoping that for them the options would be marvellous and possible! All the hotels came back to me with ideal room configurations for this family. Apart from the rental car, the holiday was in place and all that was needed for them to get there and start the holiday.

I’m so excited with the places and hotels that have been arranged for them! What a lovely holiday they have in place! In fact I’m so thrilled I thought I’d tell you about it – as I want to explain to people how wonderful my work is! When I put a holiday together for someone, for those “clients”, the places arranged are just names of hotels and names of villages, nothing more! But I have the advantage where for me I see people sitting on a terrace with a chilled wine, I see people’s jaws drop when they see some of the places, some of their rooms, for the first time! I know just the experiences and the feelings people will have, and this makes me feel good!! So thanks to all of you for letting me have so much fun helping you!!!

In less than two weeks I am escorting a tour from Paris, through to Milan and Lake Como, to Venice and then through to Dubrovnik. I know when my tour group received their itinerary they understood where they were going, but they can not understand how extraordinary, how moving, how beautiful are the places they will see. When the tour is over they are the lucky ones too – for they just need to close their eyes and they’re back there again – tasting the food, seeing the beauty and remembering the great times. So if you’re not on this tour group with me, just follow us on this blog!

Doing what I do reminds me of Steve Jobs from Apple Computers, who said – “The only way to do great work, is to love what you do!”

Poetics of Engagement

Every time I see one of his photographs, I just want to…hug it! So what is it that I love so much about the works of Willy Ronis? After a lot of pondering about this question, I came up with an answer. Each one of his photos is a story about you and me. Not actually you and me of course ‘cos I so wasn’t alive in the fifties…but they’re anecdotal, poetic, and heart warming stories of everyday life that transcend the borders of time and remove us from the pressing uncertainties in the world around us. Why can’t we celebrate the little things in life instead of zooming in on the things that are wrong with it? That, is why I love Ronis.

Carrefour Sèvres-Babylone, Paris 1959 - Crédit Photo: © Willy Ronis

Like fellow photographers Brassai and Doisneau, Ronis took pleasure in little yet touching scenes he saw in his life as walked out the door each morning. Ronis delighted in exploring the streets of the French capital; busy pedestrians, happy lovers by the Seine, the hustle and bustle of the flea markets, and children playing games in the streets. Coupled with his camera Ronis wove together an artistic patchwork embodying the nostalgic charm of Parisian life.

In the weeks before his death in 2009, Ronis expressed his wishes to have a big exhibition in Paris to celebrate his one hundredth birthday. This year the Jeu de Paume and the Monnaie de Paris join forces with the Médiathèque de l’Architecture et du Patrimonie to make his dream a reality, albeit a posthumous one.

The exhibition is more than a homage to this French photography great, for it also sets out to reveal numerous unknown aspects of his fine body of work – thousands of negative, personal and professional documents, photo albums and vintage prints. I stumbled across pictures I’d never even seen before which immediately captured my attention, including his beautifully composited photograph Un dimanche au Louvre.

Although a bit cluttered in presentation, A Poetics of Engagement is clearly a must-see exhibition for any lover of Ronis’ work, or anyone just wanting to discover breath-taking snapshots of Paris throughout the last century.

Willy Ronis – A Poetics of Engagement

16 April to 22 August 2010

Monnaie de Paris, 11 quai de Conti, Paris 6ème

Tuesday-Sunday 11h00 to 19h00 (late night Thursday)

Admission: 7 Euro (Concession 5 Euro)

Written by Sarah Reese

Garden on the Champs Elysees, Paris.

This beats a traffic jam!

Taking Eco to a New Level.

During the last two days in Paris ‘the most beautiful avenue in the world’ has transformed itself into a garden. A public garden down the Champs Elysées, surely not? That’s right, move over public transport, move over after-work traffic and make space for a few kilometers of luscious vegetation and lavender plantations.  We decided (Sarah and her Frenchman!) to go along to check it out…along with tens of thousands of other Parisians and tourists all wanting a glimpse at the city’s new attempt at being eco-friendly.

We spent a lovely afternoon strolling down the avenue hand-in-hand, the sun beating down upon us, admiring the 8000-odd plantations of herbs, flowers, vegetables, and trees. There were also plentiful stalls as well displaying everything from a pyramid of organic fruit and vege to eco-friendly chocolate and beer. Yes, I kid you not, Heineken makes its move into the realm of Green-ness!

But hats off to the organizers, this new eco initiative attracted people of all ages and shapes and sizes. Paris is certainly making baby steps to becoming just that little bit greener, especially after the introduction of the Velib programme (public bicycle rental) in mid-2007.

So next year, trot along to le jardin aux Champs Elysées to show your true colours. Or you could just play eco-friendly like my flatmate and put a worm farm in your bathroom. Over to you!

You can learn more by visiting http://www.naturecapitale.com

(Thanks to my daughter Sarah)

Rafael Nadal - Can he do it?

I love playing tennis, and always dream of being able to hit a forehand winner just like Rafael Nadal. Hopefully my tennis partners will say “but you do John”! Anyway not long to wait for the real thing as Rafa fronts up on 23 May for the 2010 Roland Garros. Honestly I can’t wait! So who will win this year – Nadal or Roger Federer, or is it this year up to the only English speaking challengers to the title in the two Andys, Andy Roddick or Andy Murray!! Sadly Del Potro is out, but there is still the Frenchman Tsonga – but secretly you know who I’m cheering for!

I have many clients of France-The French Way who are packing their bags to head to Paris for the time of their lives! But have you ever wondered as to why this tennis tournament takes the name of Roland Garros? Hamish my tennis partner asked me this question the other day.

Roland Garros became famous during the First World War as an ace pilot, and apart from being the first to fly solo across the Mediterannean, was an engineer who developed a system of firing a machine gun through the props of a fighter plane. On one mission during the First World War in northern France, Garros was downed by the Germans, but failed to destroy his plane which was equipped with his prototype machine gun firing system. The plane was sent back to Germany where the engineer Anthony Fokker studied it and mastered the modern system of  forward firing machine guns.

But why should a Pilot’s name grace a world famous tennis stadium? In 1927 the French won the Davis Cup. Tennis in Paris was controlled mainly by the sports clubs. Stade Francais and Racing Club (see article earlier on Andrew Mehrtens) organised the tennis tournaments and they decided after this major Davis Cup victory that they should organise an international tournament based at a central site in Paris. Stade Francais and Racing Club of course are still well known today as leading Rugby Clubs, and it was Stade Francais who offered to sell 3 hectares to the west of Paris for the development of a national tennis centre. Their one condition was that it be named after one of their own members who had died during the war – Roland Garros! Voila!

If you are in Paris?

Head to the Hotel de Ville during the last week of the tournament for a Beach Tennis festival for all ages. Public participation is also encouraged. I can’t quite imagine this – something like Beach Volleyball?? Maybe Sharapova might be there?!

Roland Garros: 23 May to 6 June 2010

Cannes Film Festival

Brad Pitt at Cannes Film Festival

So where’s the Cannes Film Festival being held this year?” – Christina Aguleira (2010)

My dear daughter Sarah shares this subject that she loves with us:

It’s been nearly a year that I’ve been living in France studying film but I guess I’ve been so swept up on a wave of screenwriting and filmmaking that I actually FORGOT the Cannes Film Festival this week. Slap on the hand. It’s happening right on our doorstep and instead I’ll be in London talking to British cinematographers (who are obviously not nominated this year!) I’m trying to decide where I’d rather be?

Despite the fact it slipped my mind this year, the Cannes film festival is a true celebration of film-making around the world. It edges away from the mainstream cinema and celebrates films made by anyone from blockbuster masters to arthouse geniuses to everyday Fellow kiwis from down the road. It’s glamour, it’s champagne, it’s sunshine, it’s celebrating the love we have for the images in our lives.

Unfortunately (in my opinion) the festival opens with Ridley Scott’s multimillion blockbuster Robin Hood starring fellow Australians Russell Crowe and Cate Blanchett. During the last couple of weeks, the Paris metro stations are plastered with posters of a sweaty, muscley Russell posing dramatically with a bow and arrow. Advertising at its most efficient.

As for the films in competition…I look forward to hearing how Alejandro González Iñárritu’s (Babel, 21grams) new film Biutiful is received. Also keep your eyes open for Another Year directed by Mike Leigh (Vera Drake). Like the Oscars and Golden Globes however, anything can happen….

Especially with Tim Burton on the jury.

(Cannes Film Festival runs from 12 to 23 May 2010)